2.27.2007

Emulsion Composition and Role

- " Composition of a classical cosmetic formulation :


Surfactants

Hydrosoluble Polymeres , thickeners

Preservatives

Antibacterians, antiseptic

Humectants and Moisterizers

Pigments

Perfumes

Colorants

Divers additives


photo taken from http://www.lavbeauty.com/skincare.jpg


Aqueous phase :

Composition :

- Sterilised/Deminerilised Water which serves as an excipient.

- Consistency Agents : Those are ploymers able to modify the reological comportment of formulations.

- Chelating Agents : molecule specialised in the capture and the immobilisation of ionic substances coming from cleansing water in order to reduice the risks of oxydation.

- Humectant Agents : added to limit the loss of water in the product.

- pH Regulator : to adjust the pH of the formula (to avoid the fact the product is agressive for the skin).

- Moistening Agents : provoke an immediat and long term effect of skin hydration.


Aqueous phase Functions :

- permits the development of viscosing polymers.

- Takes in actives, preservatives and colorants which are hydrosolubles.

- Restaurates the epidermis hydration by bringing elements able to fix water in the corneous layer of the skin, (elements as water and moisterizing agents).


- Oily phase :

Composition :

- Emollient : it nourishes the skin and play a role in the touchside and texture of the final product.

- Conditioning agents : form a film on the skin or hair to limit agression of surfactants.

- Surfactants : molecules permiting the formulation of the emulsion.

- Perfume phase : containing perfum, antioxydant, preservatives, solubilising.


Oily phase Functions :

- Takes in actives, preservatives, colorants which are liposolubles (soluble in oil).

- Participates to the hydrolipidic film reconstruction favorisating the conservation of the epidermis hydration.

- Gives a particular final touch to the formula.





Source : http://perso.orange.fr/chimie.sup/formulation.htm

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